Santa Maria del Giglio
Another façade that
drew the censure of Ruskin for its total lack of any Christian symbols
(give or take a token angel or two). Built between 1678 and 1683, it's
really a huge exercise in defiant self-glorification by Admiral Antonio
Barbaro, who was dismissed by Doge Francesco Morosini for incompetence
in the War of Candia (Crete). On the plinths of the columns are relief
plans of towns where he had served, including Candia; his own statue (in
the centre) is flanked by representations of Honour, Virtue, Fame and Wisdom.
And all of this within view of Morosini's own palazzo.
The interior is more devotional.
You may not have heard of the painter Antonio Zanchi (1631-1722), but this
is definitely his church. Particularly interesting is Abraham Teaching
the Egyptians Astrology in the Sacristy, while the Cappella Molin has Ulysses
Recognised by his Dog (another piece of Barbaro self-mythologising). This
chapel also contains the Treasury, with fragments and oddments of
saints and a much-vaunted but doubtful Rubens, Madonna and Child. Behind
the altar are two paintings of The Evangelists by Tintoretto, formerly